TCB Cathartt Jacket
When TCB starts a new project, a recent meeting with a great vintage piece is always the trigger for us. Something I saw through show windows that I couldn't afford or some particular vintage jeans that movie stars wore, etc. So, I look back at the clothes of my longing, and I reproduce the items that I've longed for: That's basically what the TCB brand is.
Another case is the Viktor's Voice Project we did last year. We borrow some particular vintage piece that is super rare and never sold, even at the most prominent vintage shops around the world, from substantial denim collectors like Mr Viktor Fredback.
Please let me be 100% clear and honest about this. We've started the product development this time without owning the vintage chore jacket.
What we had was the vintage heart-shaped buttons and the bib overall of the '20s with the famous Master Cloth tag. The reason is simple: I've been dying to make this chore jacket for a long time, and I could not wait till the excellent meeting.
We've referred to a vintage Carhartt chore jacket from the 20s for the tag design. Carhartt vintage clothing is very popular in Japan as well as in the rest of the world, and the famous heart-shaped tag was used on their garments between the '30s ~ and the '40s, but this Master Cloth one is even rarer, which was used only till the late '20s.
As for the fabric, the weaving tension is set relatively loose, and we've chosen a yarn count: 7 for the warps and 1 for the wefts. The difference in the yarn count between the warps and the wefts is unusual for denim weaving. Still, speaking of this fabric at the microscopic level, it looks like the warps sit over the wefts on the fabric's surface, which will eventually lead to wild rainfall fades. The difference in the yarn count creates more apparent twill lines for a 2*1 material.
It's dyed with synthetic indigo without any adulteration. A bit of derailment here, but have you ever seen any denim, Wabash, or whatever indigo-dyed vintage clothing faded into some greenish colour? That's brought by cheap synthetic indigo with some filler ingredients mixed in. Our fabric, this time, is dyed with 100% synthetic indigo, so it won't fade to the greenish colour, which I know some like. And I also like it, but as far as I study the vintage Carhartte, the greenish colour is definitely not characteristic of their fabric.